ancient and worn down

and yet still they have their beauty

The best way to come upon the Wichita Mountains is by surprise. Drive north-west from the greater Dallas-Fort Worth Metroplex. Follow the train tracks until you get to the falls, and then drive north, across the river and the red dirt and the endless green fields. Start this drive early, entirely too early, on a spring morning after a night of thunderstorms, when the air is still heavy with the memory of rain and the earth smells fresh and vegetal with that underlying scent of life. If you time it right, you’ll turn onto a county road just as the mist and fog comes in, and the bones of mountains will only themselves be hints against the steel wool sky, what’s left after a millennia of rains just like the one you stayed at home to avoid.

A small hill pokes up in front of a low-hanging grey cloud across a grassy field.
A red stone tower stands off-center on a red dirt and green scrub landscape against a grey sky.

Pentax K1000 / Kodak UltraMax

A dead tree sticks up out of a green brusy landscape. The tree is against a rocky background with misty clouds behind.
A flock of birds is silhouetted against a grey cloudy sky
Two buffalo graze a green field with a grey misty sky behind them.

Unlike the eponymous clothing-staining mud of the Red River region, the dirt upon which you camp and hike in the mountains themselves is dark, the broken down remains of 500 million-year-old granite, the rounded boulders of which rear their head against the sky. Around every sweeping bend of the roads that wind their way through the public lands that encompass part of the only bumpy parts of the map before western Colorado.

Two rocks that look like eyes are silhouetted against a blue sky with puffy white clouds dotted across it.

Pentax K1000 / Kodak UltraMax

A log floats in a lake reflecting a blue sky with big clouds.
A blue sky filled with white puffy clouds over a wide green vista.
A stream of water rushes past wet rocks with green mosses and small ferns.
A very small grey bird with a long beak sits on a branch.

Blue-Grey Gnatcatcher

A patch of neon-green lichen on the edge of a grey/brown granite rock.

Pentax K1000 / Kodak UltraMax

The sun setting over hills in the background, reflected in a body of water in the middle of the image.

However it feels to chance across the mountains through the mist, the sun highlights the things that were once hidden - the way the worn-away rock hides secret waterfalls, or the color of the light through the new leaves on the trees themselves hiding a somewhat otherworldly landscape.

Writing about this trip at a remove feels like that final morning, where we drove to the top of Mount Scott and I hobbled on a sprained ankle around the top of what is (at a minimum) the highest publicly accessible point in Oklahoma while someone running for local office attempted to record a political ad and the wind worked to separate me from my hat and a Swainson’s Hawk soared on the currents looking for a snack and we looked, in vain, for the USGS summit marker. The countryside spread out below me, subject to my gaze and yet removed from it, the boat crossing the lake just a speck of glitter in the harsh morning sun. Everything moved quickly and yet didn’t move at all, the solidity of the rock under my feet hiding the spinning of the earth through space. Me, the observer of my feelings, of life, but still connected by the thin sliver of tarmac spiraling back town towards the ground.

A view from a high point of a lake and the surrounding countryside.